Italian Wine: From Piedmont to Sicily

Four names are widely recognized: Barolo and Barbaresco in Piedmont, both made from Nebbiolo, Brunello di Montalcino in Tuscany, and Amarone della Valpolicella in Veneto. These are the appellations where Italy competes with the world's greatest wines, and where prices reflect that.

The same grape, Nebbiolo, from two neighboring communes in the Langhe. Barbaresco grows closer to the river, ripens earlier, and ages two years before being sold; it is more supple and opens up faster. Barolo waits three years, on more varied soils, and produces more massive wines that often require a decade.

A red wine from Veneto made with dried grapes: the bunches are left to dry for three to four months on racks before being pressed. The water evaporates, the sugar concentrates, and the finished wine often boasts fifteen to sixteen degrees of alcohol. The result is a very rich wine, with notes of candied cherry and cocoa, which is best enjoyed at the end of a meal rather than with food.

Both come from Tuscany and are based on Sangiovese. Chianti can blend it with other grape varieties and is drunk young. Brunello di Montalcino only allows pure Sangiovese, ages for five years before release, and costs three to five times more.

A bright red, low-oak wine: Chianti, Valpolicella or Barbera. Tomatoes are very acidic and make any less acidic wine seem flabby. This is also why a great Barolo pairs poorly with pizza: it's too tannic for a dish that primarily requires freshness.

The selection starts at €8.60, and half the bottles are under €35. Between €15 and €25, Sicily and Puglia offer the best value for money. Beyond €60, you enter the realm of renowned Barolo, Barbaresco, and Brunello estates, up to over a thousand euros for Quintarelli Amarone.

These are among the most interesting reds in the country today. The vines grow between four hundred and one thousand meters on volcanic ash, often ungrafted, and the Nerello Mascalese grape produces pale, taut, and smoky wines. Many tasters confuse them with Burgundies in blind tastings.

Yes, and they are largely underestimated. Veneto Soave, made from Garganega, ages remarkably well; Piedmontese Gavi, made from Cortese, is a seafood white; Etna Bianco, made from Carricante, plays on mineral tension. Our department has about fifty of them, representing a fifth of the Italian offering.

First, Barolo and Barbaresco, which often need ten years to open up and can last thirty. Brunello di Montalcino and Amarone follow, lasting fifteen to twenty years. Conversely, a Prosecco, Moscato d'Asti, or a simple Valpolicella should be drunk within two years: their appeal lies in their fruit, which fades over time.

These are the appellation levels. DOCG is the most restrictive, DOC comes just after, and IGT allows the most freedom to the winemaker. Be careful not to jump to conclusions: some of Tuscany's most expensive wines are simply classified as IGT, because their producers wanted to use grape varieties that the appellation prohibited.