Wines of Cyprus, from Xynisteri to Commandaria
A mountain white and a sweet wine with a thousand years of historyLooking for a dry white that smells of the Mediterranean, or a dessert wine steeped in history? Cyprus offers both. On the slopes of the Troodos massif, between 500 and 900 m altitude, the vines enjoy the island's sunshine and the coolness of mountain nights.
We have chosen two wines from the Kamanterena winery, in the Paphos region: the Xynisteri Dry, a lively white from the island's king grape, at €15 a bottle, and the Commandaria Saint Barnabas, the most famous sweet wine of Cyprus.
Kamanterena - Xynisteri Dry 2024
Xynisteri, Cyprus's emblematic white grape, in a fresh, fruity version from the hills of Paphos.
Xynisteri Dry and Commandaria, side by side
Two wines from the same winery, two uses: one opens the meal, the other ends it.
| Xynisteri Dry 2022 | Commandaria Saint Barnabas |
|---|---|
| Dry white, lively and light | Sweet wine from sun-dried grapes |
| Xynisteri | 94% Xynisteri, 6% Mavro |
| Mountain villages of the Paphos region | Southern foothills of the Troodos, Limassol district |
| Harvested at full ripeness, cool vinification | Sun-dried grapes, followed by long ageing |
| 12,5 % | 15 % |
| 8 to 10 °C, as an aperitif or with food | 10 to 12 °C, in a small glass |
| Within five years | More than fifteen years |
| 15 € per 75 cl bottle | 35 € per 50 cl bottle |
The Kamanterena winery is located between the villages of Stroumbi and Polemi, in the heart of the mountain vineyards of Paphos. It belongs to SODAP, a cooperative founded in 1947 by Cypriot winegrowers.
Which Cypriot wine with which dish
Xynisteri follows the island's cuisine, Commandaria joins in for dessert and the cheese board.
| On the menu | The wine | Why it works |
|---|---|---|
| Grilled halloumi, mezze | Xynisteri Dry | The lemony acidity balances the salt of the grilled cheese |
| Fried squid, Greek salad | Xynisteri Dry | A light white that refreshes fried food and olive oil |
| Grilled sea bass, white fish | Xynisteri Dry | Freshness and finesse, a match for delicate flesh |
| Grilled chicken breast | Xynisteri Dry | Enough backbone for simple poultry and fresh herbs |
| Chocolate fondant | Commandaria | Notes of dried fruit and caramel, a sweetness that stands up to cocoa |
| Fig or walnut cake | Commandaria | The aromas of dried fig and walnut echo each other |
| Bleu de Bresse, aged Gouda | Commandaria | The sugar softens the salt and strength of the cheese |
Once opened, Commandaria keeps for several weeks in the fridge, stoppered: a small glass is enough to round off a meal.
A bottle for every mood
Start with the occasion, and the bottle will follow.
A summer white
Citrus, white flowers and a lively palate: the island's dry white, to serve well chilled as an aperitif or with grilled food.
Xynisteri Dry 2022, €15 a bottleA legendary dessert wine
Grapes dried in the Troodos sun, long ageing: a sweet wine with notes of fig, caramel and walnut.
Commandaria Saint Barnabas, €35 per 50 cl bottleFor a blue cheese board
Roquefort, Bleu de Bresse, Fourme d'Ambert: sweet wines and reds that stand up to blue cheeses.
Other great sweet wines
From Tokaji to Sauternes, the sweet wines in our cellar, to continue the discovery after Commandaria.
Neighbouring Greece
Assyrtiko from Santorini, Xinomavro from Naoussa: ancient grape varieties and sun-drenched wines, on the other side of the Aegean Sea.
The Eastern Mediterranean
Just across from Cyprus, the Bekaa and its high-altitude reds, between French tradition and Levantine grape varieties.
Two wines to tell the story of an island
Cyprus has been making wine since Antiquity, and its vineyards have kept what many others have lost: grape varieties of their own and vines on their own roots. Rather than a long shelf, we have chosen two bottles that tell the essentials.
The Xynisteri Dry shows the island of today, that of fresh whites from the mountain villages. The Commandaria Saint Barnabas shows the timeless island, that of a sweet wine that the merchants of Venice and Genoa were already loading into their holds.
Commandaria in a few words
Bunches of Xynisteri and Mavro are dried in the sun for several days after the harvest. The highly concentrated juice ferments and then ages for a long time in barrel. The name comes from the Grand Commandery of the Knights, at Kolossi. The appellation is protected and limited to fourteen villages in the Troodos.
The Wine Wanderer Team
What people ask us about Cypriot wines
What is Commandaria?
It is the emblematic sweet wine of Cyprus, often described as the oldest named wine still in production. It is made from sun-dried Xynisteri and Mavro grapes, in fourteen designated villages of the Troodos, then aged for a long time in barrel. Our Commandaria Saint Barnabas is sold in a 50 cl bottle.
Where does the name Commandaria come from?
In the Middle Ages, the Knights of the Order of Saint John held a large commandery at Kolossi, near Limassol. They produced and sold this sweet wine throughout Europe. The name “wine of the Commandery” stuck. Legend also has it that Richard the Lionheart celebrated it during his time on the island.
How should Commandaria be served?
Lightly chilled, between 10 and 12 °C, in a small dessert wine glass. It goes with dessert, a board of blue cheeses, or can be enjoyed on its own at the end of a meal. Once opened, stoppered and stored in the fridge, it keeps for several weeks. Find more ideas in our sweet wine section.
What is the main white grape of Cyprus?
Xynisteri, an indigenous grape variety that covers a large share of the island's vineyards. Planted at altitude, it produces light whites with aromas of citrus and white flowers, and lively acidity. It also makes up most of the Commandaria blend. To taste it dry, open our Xynisteri Dry.
What to serve with Xynisteri?
The island's cuisine: grilled halloumi, fried squid, Greek salad, grilled sea bass, mezze. It also goes very well with grilled poultry or simply as an aperitif. Serve it between 8 and 10 °C. For other aperitif whites, see our aperitif page.
Why are Cypriot vines on their own roots?
Phylloxera, the aphid that devastated Europe's vineyards at the end of the 19th century, spared the island. Cypriot vines therefore grow ungrafted, on their own roots, as they once did all over Europe. A rarity Cyprus shares with a few isolated vineyards, such as certain sandy or high-altitude terroirs.
How long can Cypriot wines be kept?
The Xynisteri Dry is drunk young, within five years, for its freshness. Commandaria, concentrated in sugar and already long aged, will last more than fifteen years in the cellar, lying down, away from light and between 12 and 14 °C. Over time it takes on deeper notes of candied fruit and spice.
Who is the Kamanterena winery?
The Kamanterena winery is located between Stroumbi and Polemi, in the mountain vineyards of the Paphos region, in western Cyprus. It belongs to SODAP, a cooperative founded in 1947 by the island's winegrowers, and vinifies grapes from many of the surrounding villages.