Blandy's Vintage Malmsey 1988

This 1988 Malmsey from Blandy's comes from the island of Madeira, in the heart of the Atlantic Ocean, some 900 kilometres from the Portuguese coast and 600 kilometres from Africa. The Malmsey is grown mainly in São Jorge, on the north coast, where the house has long worked with more than twenty-six growers. The volcanic soils, made up of basalt, trachyte and tuff, and the temperate oceanic climate, whose temperature and humidity vary with altitude, preserve the acidity that allows these wines to span the decades.

The 1988 vintage, marked by a cooler than usual June and July, produced a late harvest of great quality, with plump grapes. After fortification, the wine aged for twenty-five years in American oak casks according to the canteiro system: first under the roof, in the attic of the Funchal lodges, until 1991, then two years on the second floor and twenty years on the first. It was bottled in 2013, in 1,589 bottles.

This wine reveals notes of dried fig, coffee, citrus peel, dried citrus, honeysuckle, baked pear, spices and varnished wood. The dark mahogany colour heralds a long ageing. The palate, of great purity, balances sweetness and savoury depth, before a saline, mineral finish of lovely freshness.

Portugal's rich history is inextricably linked to its wines, especially its most famous, Port. From the ancient cities of Lisbon and Porto to small medieval towns and Roman ruins, the past is still very much alive in modern Portugal. A wonderful holiday in the heart of this country, where Port wines originated, is a unique way to experience Old World culture, the climate, the beautiful countryside, and of course, the delicious wines. Although the history of wine in Portugal dates back to the Romans, it wasn't until the early 19th century that the wine we know today as Port came into being. Portuguese table wine had already been in high demand since the mid-17th century, primarily by the British. To make rustic Portuguese wines more stable and palatable, small amounts of brandy were added to the wine barrels before shipping. Eventually, British companies began investing in the region and perfected the process of adding brandy during fermentation, rather than after, which helped preserve the distinctive fruity flavors of the red wine that were unique to Portugal's Douro Valley. In recent years, a small revolution has taken place in the Douro region in terms of developing modern-style dry red and white wines, alongside the very traditional production of Port wines. Table wines also continue to play an important role. Increased investment, improved winemaking techniques, and the modernization of the industry are yielding interesting results. What is unique to Portugal is the very large number (over 500) of indigenous grape varieties (though some are unpronounceable). Even most wine experts are unfamiliar with the grapes that produce Port, Madeira, or any other Portuguese wine. Like its neighbor Spain, Portugal has been experiencing a quiet revolution for the past two decades. The reluctance to follow trends and plant international grape varieties is now bearing fruit, and the new breed of wines, brimming with terroir and fruit, is more than capable of competing on the world stage. The unique flavors that characterize Portugal's indigenous grape varieties have become its strength. This is good news for those seeking a change from the ubiquitous international grape-based wines. The terroir is so diverse. From north to south, east to west, from mountainous to coastal vineyards, hot and dry or cool and green. In every style, from vinho verde to port, from crisp, dry whites to elegant reds, in so many different ways, Portuguese wines are unique.