Schloss Johannisberg Blaulack TBA (37.5cl) 2020

The Schloss Johannisberg vineyard lies in the Rheingau, on the north bank of the Rhine, in Germany. This historic hill overlooks the river and enjoys a due-south exposure particularly favourable to the slow ripening of Riesling. The estate farms a single-block slope around the castle, whose hillsides capture the light while benefiting from the regulating influence of the Rhine. The soils, marked by quartzite and loam, encourage a taut, saline and very pure expression of the grape variety. Autumn mists rising from the river also encourage the development of noble rot.

The grapes, highly concentrated by overripeness, are rigorously selected at harvest.

This wine reveals notes of candied apricot, dried mango and orange zest, complemented by hints of acacia honey, orange blossom, saffron and wet stone. Its bouquet may also evoke quince paste, light caramel and a fine touch of ginger. The palate is sumptuous and concentrated, with an unctuous, almost syrupy texture balanced by lively, precise Riesling acidity. The long, fresh and mineral finish extends the flavours of candied fruit.

Germany has a long and illustrious history of viticulture. The Romans established the country's first vineyards along the banks of the Moselle, near the present-day city of Trier. In the third century AD, plantings spread to various neighbouring valleys, mainly those of the Moselle's tributaries. In the Middle Ages, the Christian Church, particularly the Cistercian and Benedictine monasteries, had a great influence on the development of viticulture and the production of quality wine in Germany. Germany has always been renowned for its excellent white wines: slightly sweet, low in alcohol but always of high quality. In recent years, however, wine drinkers have tended to prefer drier wines. As a result, the German market has evolved to suit every taste, with some splendid dry Rieslings and other white varieties such as Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer and Grauburgunder. Warmer summers and milder winters have also favoured rosés and reds, with Pinot Noir now the third most widely planted grape variety in the country. So take your pick: from traditional Rieslings to great reds, the range is wide and still growing. The German wine industry lost its way in terms of quality during the 20th century, extending plantings onto less favourable sites and pushing yields to levels where quality was severely compromised. However, Germany's finest producers never entirely lost their way, and since the late 20th century considerable efforts have been made to restore the country's former glory. Yields are now limited by law, and many leading producers have joined forces to form the VDP association (see German wine labels). Members of the VDP commit to focusing their efforts on quality rather than quantity. In terms of volume, Germany is among the world's top ten countries for annual wine production. Just over 60% of the wine produced is white, and it is widely accepted that the white wines from Germany's best sites and most reputable producers are among the greatest in the world. Germany's red wines are also growing in popularity and quality, especially those made from Spätburgunder, the local name for Pinot Noir. The second most popular red grape (in terms of hectares planted, at least) is Dornfelder.