Schloss Johannisberg Purpurlack BA (37.5cl) 2023

The Schloss Johannisberg vineyard unfolds around the castle, on a hill overlooking the Rhine in the Rheingau, between Geisenheim and Rüdesheim. This historic terroir, regarded as one of the great Riesling sites in Germany, enjoys a due-south exposure that encourages slow, steady ripening of the grapes. The slopes rest mainly on quartzite soils mixed with silt and clay, bringing tension, finesse and mineral expression. The nearby river tempers the climate and extends the growing season, conditions particularly favourable to the concentration of botrytised grapes.

This Beerenauslese is made from white grapes harvested by hand at full ripeness and rigorously selected. The winemaking favours the natural concentration of the fruit and the expression of a sweetness balanced by lively freshness.

This wine reveals notes of candied apricot, ripe mango, pineapple and orange peel, enriched by hints of honey, white flowers and saffron. A touch of wet stone recalls its Rhine origins and balances its indulgent register. The palate is broad, silky and concentrated, carried by a lively acidity that avoids any heaviness. The generous sweetness stretches out with precision into a long, fresh and delicately spicy finish.

Germany has a long and illustrious history of viticulture. The Romans established the country's first vineyards along the banks of the Moselle, near the present-day city of Trier. In the third century AD, plantings spread to various neighbouring valleys, mainly those of the Moselle's tributaries. In the Middle Ages, the Christian Church, particularly the Cistercian and Benedictine monasteries, had a great influence on the development of viticulture and the production of quality wine in Germany. Germany has always been renowned for its excellent white wines: slightly sweet, low in alcohol but always of high quality. In recent years, however, wine drinkers have tended to prefer drier wines. As a result, the German market has evolved to suit every taste, with some splendid dry Rieslings and other white varieties such as Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer and Grauburgunder. Warmer summers and milder winters have also favoured rosés and reds, with Pinot Noir now the third most widely planted grape variety in the country. So take your pick: from traditional Rieslings to great reds, the range is wide and still growing. The German wine industry lost its way in terms of quality during the 20th century, extending plantings onto less favourable sites and pushing yields to levels where quality was severely compromised. However, Germany's finest producers never entirely lost their way, and since the late 20th century considerable efforts have been made to restore the country's former glory. Yields are now limited by law, and many leading producers have joined forces to form the VDP association (see German wine labels). Members of the VDP commit to focusing their efforts on quality rather than quantity. In terms of volume, Germany is among the world's top ten countries for annual wine production. Just over 60% of the wine produced is white, and it is widely accepted that the white wines from Germany's best sites and most reputable producers are among the greatest in the world. Germany's red wines are also growing in popularity and quality, especially those made from Spätburgunder, the local name for Pinot Noir. The second most popular red grape (in terms of hectares planted, at least) is Dornfelder.