Gattinara DOCG Riserva San Francesco 2020

The San Francesco vineyard is one of the historic crus of Gattinara, in Alto Piemonte, at the foot of the Alps and the Monte Rosa massif. This three-and-a-half-hectare slope, at about 390 metres above sea level, is planted with Nebbiolo vines around sixty years old rooted in volcanic soils. The Antoniolo family, pioneers in bottling the appellation's single crus, has vinified San Francesco separately since 1974 to reveal the singular personality of this plot, the most delicate of its trio of crus.

Made from Nebbiolo, the grapes ferment spontaneously with native yeasts in cement tanks, with maceration of about eighteen days. The particularly long ageing takes place in two stages: eighteen months mainly in previously used barrels, then eighteen months in Slavonian and French oak vats (foudres) of 25 to 35 hectolitres. Finally, the wine rests for a year in bottle before release. This patient work refines the tannic structure while preserving the airy elegance specific to this cru.

This wine reveals notes of morello cherry, crushed flowers, rose, mint, dried herbs, slate, chalk, graphite and truffle. The floral, mineral nose gains depth with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied yet tight-knit, driven by mouth-watering acidity and firm tannins that give it great energy. Long and mineral, this Gattinara will reward patience in the cellar.

Ah, Italy, what a beautiful, hedonistic country, the land of la dolce vita, but how difficult it is to understand its wine industry! The key to understanding the appellation system in Italy is to think of it as several small countries rather than a single homogeneous nation, as each region has its own appellation system. Italy can offer wine lovers a multitude of wines with varied and unique flavors and styles, bottles brimming with surprise and creativity. Unfortunately, it also produces a large quantity of soulless, characterless wines sold under their most commercially useful and prestigious name: Pinot Grigio, Chianti, Valpolicella, Lambrusco, Prosecco, and many others... But let's talk a little history. Viticulture in Italy dates back to antiquity and originated in Greece. The Etruscans are said to have introduced the vine, and Greek immigrants improved and modified the grape varieties, subsequently calling the country "Oenotria": the land of wine. At the height of the Roman Empire, wine held an important place in daily life, and certain regions already distinguished themselves by the excellence of their product. The Romans also established numerous vineyards in Europe, leaving an indelible mark of their conquest. Today, Italy is the world's largest wine producer, ahead of France. Italy is divided into three climatic zones. The northern mountains have a rather harsh mountain climate. The plains of the "central boot" are characterized by a continental climate with cold winters and hot, stormy summers. In the southern part of the Italian boot, the Mediterranean climate prevails, with very hot and dry summers, not forgetting the islands of Sicily and Sardinia. In short, Italy produces a wide variety of wines thanks to its 200 different grape varieties, many of which originated in its own lands. It is a country as complex as its wines, which deserve to be explored!