Antoniolo Gattinara DOCG Riserva 2020

Gattinara lies in Alto Piemonte, on the right bank of the Sesia, at the foot of the Monte Rosa massif. The vines here take root in acidic soils of volcanic origin, rich in porphyry, which give Nebbiolo great finesse and remarkable tension. Founded in 1948 by Mario Antoniolo and now run by his grandchildren Alberto and Lorella, the estate farms around fourteen hectares facing south and south-west, planted with vines fifty to sixty years old.

This Gattinara Riserva is made from Nebbiolo sourced exclusively from the estate's vineyards, farmed without systemic products or chemical fertilisers. After the harvest, fermentation starts spontaneously with native yeasts in cement tanks, with skin maceration of about eighteen days. The wine is then aged for thirty-six months in large Slavonian and French oak vats (foudres) of 25 to 35 hectolitres, then rests for a further year in bottle before release. A patient, classic approach in the service of terroir.

This wine reveals notes of cherry, raspberry, violet, dried rose, mint, eucalyptus, sage, tobacco, sweet spices and iron. The nose blends red fruit, flowers, aromatic herbs and spicy touches. The medium-bodied, vibrant palate rests on bright acidity and silky yet firm tannins. The long, mineral, spicy finish points to fine ageing potential.

Ah, Italy, what a beautiful, hedonistic country, the land of la dolce vita, but how difficult it is to understand its wine industry! The key to understanding the appellation system in Italy is to think of it as several small countries rather than a single homogeneous nation, as each region has its own appellation system. Italy can offer wine lovers a multitude of wines with varied and unique flavors and styles, bottles brimming with surprise and creativity. Unfortunately, it also produces a large quantity of soulless, characterless wines sold under their most commercially useful and prestigious name: Pinot Grigio, Chianti, Valpolicella, Lambrusco, Prosecco, and many others... But let's talk a little history. Viticulture in Italy dates back to antiquity and originated in Greece. The Etruscans are said to have introduced the vine, and Greek immigrants improved and modified the grape varieties, subsequently calling the country "Oenotria": the land of wine. At the height of the Roman Empire, wine held an important place in daily life, and certain regions already distinguished themselves by the excellence of their product. The Romans also established numerous vineyards in Europe, leaving an indelible mark of their conquest. Today, Italy is the world's largest wine producer, ahead of France. Italy is divided into three climatic zones. The northern mountains have a rather harsh mountain climate. The plains of the "central boot" are characterized by a continental climate with cold winters and hot, stormy summers. In the southern part of the Italian boot, the Mediterranean climate prevails, with very hot and dry summers, not forgetting the islands of Sicily and Sardinia. In short, Italy produces a wide variety of wines thanks to its 200 different grape varieties, many of which originated in its own lands. It is a country as complex as its wines, which deserve to be explored!